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Via San Gregorio Armeno

A Cheloo travel prepares for Christmas. We want to offer our readers something different, a return to the origins and traditions lost. A walk back in time to find the colors, smells, tastes and sounds of Christmas that filled the streets of Naples since the end of November.

The heart of the Neapolitan Christmas market is Via San Gregorio Armeno, the heart of the historic World Heritage site since 1995. Few know that this is the largest center of Europe, 1700 acres with 27 centuries of history, and more than 400 churches! Along this narrow and uphill, they open a series of workshops expose and sell all kinds of statues, and more varied and imaginative accessories for the crib, right on the street, creating what is now one of the most famous sights of Naples. In some shop, when the crowd of passers-by is not excessive, you can also see the work of artisans, and assemble and paint their shepherds, all made by hand.

These are places that still retain the mystery and charm of an ancient past, where the sacred and the profane are mixed with the story. At the end of the street of San Gregorio Armeno, you reach the clearing in front of the Basilica of San Lorenzo, which dates from 1200 and that hides in its entrails, a real buried city, with its Roman streets and its shops, perfectly preserved. The area is a trove of treasures to discover, every corner, every stone tells a story: underground Naples, the ruins of the Roman theater incorporated into the walls of the buildings, the church of "anime pezzentelle" ....

At lunchtime, the return to origins, brings us to the "Cantina " in name and fact. At the beginning of the century, the wineries in Naples, were the places where they sold wine and where you could eat something served with a glass of wine. Today the "cellars" are very few left, but they are the only places where you can sample the dishes of the ancient Naples and popular, meat and fish, in a warm and homey, in the heart of Naples, which still survives and defends teeth clenched his tradition.